Tafraout and the Anti-Atlas: campsites, the Ameln valley and bivouacs

At just over 1,000 m in the heart of the Anti-Atlas, Tafraout sits in a bowl of pink granite boulders at the foot of the Ameln valley. Dry air, mild winter days and almond blossom in February make it one of the great gathering points for motorhome travellers wintering in Morocco, far from the bustle of the coast. The directory lists 18 campsites, stops and bivouacs in town and on the roads that lead there.

Tafraout's campsites

Half a dozen campsites are grouped in town and on its edge, within walking distance of the shops. The best documented is Camp Tazka (about 75 MAD, water, electricity, showers, toilets, wifi and restaurant), near the rock-engraving site of the same name. Camping Granite Rose, reached by paved road, is surrounded by boulders that glow red at sunset. Also in town are Camping Les 3 Palmiers (wifi, grocery, restaurant), the small, family-run Momo & Saïd campsite and the Tagtout inn. A motorhome stop is also mapped in town, along a track.

The Ameln valley

North of Tafraout, the Ameln valley strings together some twenty Berber villages at the foot of Jebel Lekst, among almond and palm trees. The "Lion's Head" rock overlooks the valley and gives its name to Camping Tête de Lion. Next door, Camp La Vallée (water, electricity, showers, toilets, restaurant) and Camp L'Arganier, along a track, are good bases for walking from village to village. A bivouac spot is also mapped across from town, with no facilities at all.

Must-sees around town

• The painted rocks: south of town, granite boulders painted blue, pink and purple by Belgian artist Jean Vérame in 1984, and repainted since. A track leads there, fine for a van in dry weather.
• Napoleon's Hat: the most photographed rock in the area, in the village of Agard Oudad, a few kilometres from town.
• Rock engravings: the Tazka site, near the campsite of the same name, has ancient engravings on the granite slabs.
• The Aït Mansour gorges: south of Tafraout, a palm grove squeezed between rock walls, reached by a narrow, winding road.

Getting there

From Tiznit, the mountain road climbs to the Kerdous pass (about 1,100 m), overlooked by a former palace turned hotel, with wide views over the Anti-Atlas ridges. On this road, Camping La Fleur d'Amanouz in Tarsouat is a simple stop under the argan trees. Lower down, towards Tiznit, the Tortoise Oasis hides in a gorge, and two stops are mapped around Ouijjane: a stop with electricity and toilets and a second one reached by paved road. The other route comes from Agadir via Aït Baha, just as winding. A bivouac at Targua Ntouchka is also mapped in the mountains.

Further south: Tamanart and Amtoudi

South of the Anti-Atlas, the oases of the Bani valley mark the edge of the desert. A bivouac near Tamanart sits on the edge of the palm grove, for self-sufficient vehicles. About sixty kilometres from Tafraout as the crow flies, Amtoudi is famous for its agadir, a fortified communal granary perched on a spur, and its gorges. Id Aïssa camp-inn (about 50 MAD, water, electricity, showers, toilets, restaurant) is the base, at the end of a track.

Practical info

• Season: October to April. In February the almond trees blossom and the almond festival livens up the town. Summer is very hot.
• Cold nights: in winter, nights can drop close to freezing. Bring a heater or a thick duvet.
• Roads: both approaches are narrow and full of hairpins. They are fine in a motorhome, taken slowly, and best avoided after dark.
• Supplies: Tafraout has shops, a souk, a fuel station and cash machines. Fill up before heading to Amtoudi or Tamanart.

For the nearby coast, see the Agadir and Taghazout by motorhome guide, and for the full route, Atlantic coast by van. Many Anti-Atlas listings still lack prices: if you pass through, the "Were you there?" button on each listing helps the next travellers a lot.