The Dadès and Todra gorges: where to camp, from Skoura to Tinghir

Between Ouarzazate and Merzouga, the "road of a thousand kasbahs" runs along the southern flank of the High Atlas, and two rivers have carved the most spectacular canyons in the country: the Dadès and the Todra (or Todgha). It is the unmissable stage of the southern loop, and one of the best equipped for vans and motorhomes: the directory lists 38 campsites, stops and sites between the Skoura palm grove and the Aït Hani plateau, in the Drâa-Tafilalet region. The two gorges are an hour's drive apart: allow two nights for both, three if you hike.

Coming from Ouarzazate: Skoura and the Valley of Roses

The first possible stop, 40 km from Ouarzazate, is the Skoura palm grove, an oasis of earthen kasbahs. Camping Ameridil (75 MAD, water, electricity, showers, wifi) sits next to Kasbah Amerhidil, the one on the 50-dirham note; Kasbah Aït Ben Moro also welcomes vans on the edge of the palm grove. Further north, Gîte Amoudou in Toundoute has a dump station, a rarity in the area.

The road then crosses Kelaat M'Gouna, capital of the perfume rose: distilleries, cooperatives and a festival in May. Two places to sleep in town, Kasbah Dar Diafa and Hotel Rose M'Gouna. Hikers head up the M'Goun valley to Tamaloutte, the starting point for walks into the M'Goun gorges.

The Dadès Gorges, from Boumalne to M'Semrir

At Boumalne Dadès, the R704 leaves the main road and climbs the valley northwards. Le Soleil Bleu (80 MAD, water, electricity, showers, grocery, restaurant), in Boumalne itself, is the best-equipped base before the gorges. A few kilometres up, in Aït Youl, the Kasbah Aït Youl stop and the eco-organic riad face the first kasbahs, then Camp Pattes de Singes sits in front of the strange rounded sandstone formations it is named after ("monkey fingers").

The heart of the gorges begins at Aït Oudinar, at the small bridge marking the entrance to the narrows. The Aït Oudinar camp-auberge (water, electricity, showers, grocery, restaurant) is the best equipped here. Just above, along the river, come Chez Pierrette & Moha, Les Peupliers, La Gazelle du Dadès and the Kasbah de la Vallée stop, all at the foot of the famous "Dadès snake", the string of hairpins the road coils up the cliff. Drive up in the late afternoon for the photo, when the light turns the walls red.

Past the snake, the road enters the narrowest part of the gorges. The Taghia stop and the Berbère de la Montagne camp-hotel let you sleep at the bottom of the canyon. At the far end, M'Semrir (about 1,900 m) has two stops, La Vallée des Nomades (wifi, grocery, restaurant) and the M'Semrir stop: this is where the high roads to Agoudal and Imilchil begin.

The Todra Gorges, from Tinghir to Tamtattouchte

About fifty kilometres east of Boumalne, Tinghir stretches along a huge palm grove. Camping Ourti (toilets, grocery, restaurant), in town, is handy for shopping. But the main attraction is 15 km further up: at the mouth of the gorges, a dozen campsites squeeze between the palm grove and the cliffs. Le Soleil (85 MAD, water, electricity, showers, wifi) is the most complete; Azlag, the Sacred Fish Spring, Le Lac and Camping Atlas offer shaded pitches by the water. Higher up, the gorge bivouac sits almost at the foot of the walls.

The narrowest stretch, a few hundred metres between cliffs some 300 m high, is a walk from the campsites. Go early: by mid-morning the minibuses from Marrakech arrive. The cliffs are also one of Morocco's great climbing areas, with hundreds of bolted routes.

Linking the two gorges over the top

Above the Todra, the road continues to Tamtattouchte and the Aït Hani plateau, where you can still sleep: Essalam, the Tafouyt stop or the Panorama auberge. From there, a high road reaches M'Semrir via Agoudal, closing the Todra–Dadès loop without going back down to the main road. The passes top 2,500 m: in winter, snow and rockfalls can close it. Ask locally about the road surface before committing, especially with a large motorhome.

Practical info

• Season: March to May and September to November. Summer is hot in the valley but bearable in the gorges; in winter nights freeze, and it snows in M'Semrir and on the plateau.
• Flash floods: late-summer storms make the rivers rise very fast. Never park in the riverbed, even when it is dry.
• Roads: paved to the end of both gorges, but narrow, with tight passing when minibuses come the other way. The Dadès snake is easy in a motorhome; take your time.
• Prices: 75 to 85 MAD a night for the serviced campsites in the directory; many places have no listed rate.
• Services: fill up and shop in Boumalne or Tinghir; there is almost nothing at the end of the gorges or on the plateau.

For the next leg to the Erg Chebbi, see the Merzouga guide, and for the full south-east loop, the Drâa-Tafilalet route. All spots are on the map. Many gorge listings still lack prices: if you pass through, the "Were you there?" button on each listing helps the next travellers a lot.