Essaouira and Sidi Kaouki by van: campsites, stops and windy beaches

Essaouira, with its World Heritage-listed walled medina, blue fishing port and trade winds, is the first big stop on the Atlantic coast heading south, halfway between Casablanca and Agadir. Around it, the coast alternates windy beaches, like Sidi Kaouki, with argan countryside hiding quiet campsites. The directory lists 16 campsites, stops and spots between Bhibah in the north and the bay of Tafedna in the south.

Sleeping in Essaouira itself

There is no campsite in the medina, but there are two motorhome options near the seafront. The Essaouira motorhome stop (about 70 MAD, water, electricity, grocery and restaurant) is the most convenient for exploring the town on foot. A second parking area, reached by paved road, is within walking distance of the ramparts and the fishing port, with no services: better for a day visit than a long stay. In town, stick to guarded car parks and keep gear out of sight.

The hinterland: Ounagha and Aguerd

The wind blows hard on the coast, especially in summer. Many travellers therefore stay inland, among argan, olive and vine, and drive into town for the day. Around Ounagha, on the Marrakech road, Camping Les Oliviers (about 90 MAD, water, electricity, showers, toilets, wifi, grocery and restaurant, paved access) is the most complete. Camping Esprit Nature (about 130 MAD) has an eco feel, and Camping Ferme des Amis, along a track, offers a quiet farm setting. Closer to town, in the Aguerd countryside, Hotel-Camping Le Calme (about 100 MAD, water, electricity, showers, toilets, wifi, restaurant) lives up to its name, sheltered from the wind; the Villa Coriandre guesthouse also takes a few pitches.

Sidi Kaouki, the windy beach

About twenty kilometres south of Essaouira, Sidi Kaouki is a long beach overlooked by a white marabout, a gathering spot for surfers, kitesurfers and motorhome travellers. Three campsites face the sea: Camp Sidi Kaouki Beach (about 85 MAD, water, electricity, showers, toilets, grocery, restaurant), the best equipped, then Soleil Kaouki, below the marabout, and Camping Paradis Aïcha, both with a grocery and restaurant. Set back inland, the Dar Ch'Tis stop is a calmer refuge when the wind picks up.

North: Moulay Bouzerktoun and Bhibah

Some twenty kilometres north of Essaouira, Moulay Bouzerktoun is known to windsurfers for its waves and wind. The El Mouja sports complex offers pitches there, with a restaurant and direct access to the rocky shore. Further up, a bivouac near Bhibah is mapped by the beach, with no facilities at all: for self-sufficient vehicles only.

South: Tafedna and the argan coast

Between Sidi Kaouki and Imsouane, the coast grows wilder, dotted with small fishing villages. In the bay of Tafedna, Camping Golden Targante has a grocery and a dump station, rare in the area. Further south, Tabayat beach is an isolated cove at the end of a track, with no facilities. In the hills of the Haha country, the Tahart site is a rural viewpoint among the argan trees. Imsouane and the rest of the coast are covered in the Agadir and Taghazout by motorhome guide.

Practical info

• Wind: the trade winds blow mostly from spring to late summer, great for kiting and windsurfing, hard on awnings. Winter is calmer and milder, the surf season.
• Climate: the coast stays cool all year. Summer is rarely very hot, but winter nights are damp: bring some heating.
• Argan: women's cooperatives pressing argan oil line the roads around Essaouira. A visit and direct purchases, right on your way.
• Supplies: Essaouira has everything, souk, supermarkets, fuel stations and cash machines. South of Sidi Kaouki, services thin out until Imsouane.

For the full route, see Atlantic coast by van, and for a long stay in the sun, wintering in Morocco. Several listings in the area still lack prices: if you pass through, the "Were you there?" button on each listing helps the next travellers a lot.