Camping in the Rif: Chefchaouen, Akchour, Oued Laou and the Al Hoceima coast

The Rif is green Morocco: limestone mountains covered in cedar and fir, Jbala villages with tiled roofs, turquoise rivers and, to the north, a long Mediterranean coast cut into coves. No big resort campsites here, but some thirty simple places and nature spots: the directory lists 34, from Chefchaouen to the bay of Al Hoceima, in the Tanger-Tétouan-Al Hoceïma region. Here is the classic route, from the mountains down to the sea.

Chefchaouen: the blue city as a base

Both options sit on Azilane hill above the medina: the municipal campsite (60 MAD, shaded, showers, electricity) and the motorhome area (60 MAD, water and electricity). Camping Azilan, near the Spanish mosque, has the best view over the blue city. From there, the medina and the Ras el-Maa spring are a walk down the steps — no need to move the vehicle.

The ramp up to the campsites is steep and narrow: use first gear with a large motorhome, and never drive into the medina. For hikers, Jbel El-Kelaâ (1,616 m) towers over the town: a long day, but the view down onto the blue roofs is worth it.

Akchour and Talassemtane National Park

Some thirty kilometres from Chefchaouen, the road past the Talambote dam leads to the Akchour site, gateway to Talassemtane National Park, home of the Moroccan fir. Two hikes start from the car park: God's Bridge, a natural arch over the river (about 1 hour), and the big waterfall, a drop of about a hundred metres at the end of the valley (about 3 hours return). The trail follows pools where people swim in summer, with snack stalls along the way.

To sleep on site, the Akchour camping area is basic but lets you start at dawn, before the summer weekend crowds. Wilder still, the El Kannar river spot is a deep riverside nook with no facilities at all. In winter, Jbel Sfiha Telj ("the snow plateau") turns white.

On the road: stops in Jbala country

Coming from the south via Ouezzane, Motel Rif in Bni Quolla (70 MAD, water, electricity, showers, wifi, restaurant) is a handy stop. For a more local experience, the Menzah Bellota community campsite in Brikcha welcomes guests among cork oaks. North of Chefchaouen, Camping Jabali is a quiet mountain address.

Oued Laou and the coast road

From the Laou gorges you drop down to the Mediterranean and the village of Oued Laou, a long, still largely undeveloped beach of sand and pebbles. Three seaside options: the Oued Laou campsite near the village, River House between river and sea, and the pitches at the Palm restaurant, right on the sand. Heading east, the coast road to El Jebha and Al Hoceima is one of the most beautiful in the country: hairpins above the sea, little traffic, but few services — leave with a full tank. On the way, the Bni Smih stop is tolerated parking next to the gendarmerie.

Al Hoceima National Park: coves and cliffs

West of Al Hoceima, the national park protects a coast of cliffs and clear-water coves, often reached by mountain roads or tracks. The Amis de Cala Iris campsite faces the small harbour and its islet; next door, Torres de Alcala beach looks onto the Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera. Closer to town, the "700 steps" beach is earned by a long staircase, and Boumehdi remains unspoilt. In town, the Moro Viejo corniche overlooks the bay, and Nekkour bay offers a wide open beach in Ajdir.

Practical info

• Season: April to June and September-October. Winter is rainy and cold at altitude (snow on the peaks); in July-August the coast is very busy.
• Roads: winding and slow, allow plenty of time (2 hours per 100 km in the mountains). Large motorhomes should stick to the main roads.
• Prices: 60 to 70 MAD a night for the serviced campsites in the directory; many places are simple, with no listed rate.
• Offers: in some valleys you will be offered kif (cannabis); a polite no is enough.

All spots are on the map and on the Tanger-Tétouan-Al Hoceïma region page. Many Rif listings still lack prices and photos: if you pass through, the "Were you there?" button on each listing helps the next travellers a lot.